Kamakura, Japan: the day that wasn't in the plan

Kamakura wasn't, honestly, the stop I was most excited about on paper. We put it into the route as a day trip from Tokyo almost to round out the itinerary — and it ended up being, without planning it at all, one of my favorite days of the whole trip.

We left early by train from Tokyo, without many specific expectations. As soon as we arrived, the change of atmosphere was immediate: less noise, fewer people, a completely different pace from the capital that you notice instantly.

But what truly won me over was wandering with no plan through Komachi Street, full of small shops and sweet stalls. At one of those stalls we tried the best strawberry mochi of the whole trip, without particularly looking for it.

Not every best moment of a trip is on the "must-see" list. Sometimes it's the stop you expect least that ends up leaving the clearest memory.

In the afternoon we made it to the beach, watching locals surfing calmly — exactly the change of pace we needed without knowing we needed it.

How to do the day trip

From Tokyo (Shinjuku or Shibuya), the JR line takes you to Kamakura Station in about an hour. Leave early, between 8:00 and 9:00, to make the most of the day.

What to see, in order

Start with the Great Buddha of Kamakura (Daibutsu), one of the most iconic images of Japan: a giant outdoor statue surrounded by nature. It's not a place to rush. Then visit a nearby temple like Hasedera, which combines gardens, sea views and carefully kept corners. After that, Komachi Street, the city's main street, with small shops, Japanese sweets and lots of atmosphere, and in the afternoon the beach.

Where to eat and when to head back

For lunch, Kamakura Matsubara-an is a traditional soba restaurant of very good quality, and Sakura no Yumemiya offers Japanese food in a very beautiful setting. It's a good day not to over-plan food. Head back to Tokyo between 17:00 and 19:00, at a relaxed pace. More on the route in our 17-day Japan itinerary.