My first onsen in Japan: nerves and why I'd do it again
Travel Diary

My first onsen in Japan: nerves and why I'd do it again

I arrived with doubts about bathing naked next to strangers. Here's how my first time at a Japanese onsen went, and why I'd do it again without a second thought.

Before going to Japan, the idea of getting into an onsen gave me more doubts than excitement, if I'm honest. Bathing naked next to strangers, separated by gender, following rules I didn't fully know — I'll admit I arrived a bit nervous on that first day.

Traditional Japanese onsen
The hot spring area, with Mount Fuji views on the best days.

The first time was in the Mount Fuji area, after a full day walking around Lake Kawaguchi. Before going in you have to shower thoroughly — it's genuinely mandatory: the onsen water is shared, so washing beforehand isn't optional at all. That first step, oddly enough, helps shed some of the initial awkwardness.

Once inside, everything changed completely. The hot water, the silence, and on the best days, views of Mount Fuji while you fully relax — it's a feeling unlike anything I'd tried before in my life.

It's one of those experiences that, even though it raises doubts before trying it, becomes one of the clearest memories of the whole trip.

A couple of things worth knowing before you go: many onsens don't allow visible tattoos, and they're usually separated by gender without exception.

Basic onsen rules

Before getting in you have to shower thoroughly: the water is shared, so it isn't optional. Onsens are usually separated by gender, and many don't allow visible tattoos; sometimes they can be covered. It's best to ask when you book.

Where to try one

In the Fuji area, Oike Hotel has a good onsen and is perfect if you're staying there, Fujiyama Onsen is bigger and more complete, and Benifuji no Yu has very good Fuji views and a local atmosphere. In Kyoto, Funaoka Onsen is a very local experience. If you want an onsen at a place with direct Fuji views, Kozantei Ubuya has rooms with views and an onsen, probably one of the most memorable moments of the trip. More options in where to stay in Japan.

Experience your first onsen with Fuji views

The itinerary already has the Mount Fuji-area ryokan with onsen picked out, with etiquette and timings explained.

See the Fuji day

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