What to see in Tokyo: what I'd do for sure and what I'd skip

Tokyo is so big that deciding where to start is dizzying. I spent a week in total there, split between the first and last days of my trip to Japan, and this is what I would do for sure, what I'd skip and where I ate.

1. A night in Shinjuku, with no plan

If I could only do one thing in Tokyo, it would be this: a night in Shinjuku, between Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho, without much planned. Wander aimlessly, have dinner at whatever restaurant you stumble upon, step into a bar or two nearby and, if it happens, a random karaoke. It's the Tokyo you imagine before arriving, and it works better the less you organise it.

2. Ueno Park, at a slow pace

I loved it. It's one of those places where there's nothing you have to "do": stroll, have a coffee somewhere and see temples. After the chaos of Shibuya and Shinjuku it's a real relief.

3. Shibuya Sky, the best views

For me, the best views in Tokyo. But heads up: book ahead. Tickets, especially for sunset, sell out fast, and I couldn't get mine in advance; I only got in by pure coincidence, and you shouldn't count on luck. Book on the observation deck's official site. GetYourGuide doesn't have standalone tickets for the deck, but it does have guided walks around Shibuya, like this night walk through Shibuya's neon streets (affiliate link).

4. Takeshita Street and getting lost in Omotesando (my favourite day)

My favourite day in Tokyo: walking down Takeshita Street in Harajuku and then getting lost in Omotesando. They are two very different faces a short walk apart: one is colour, noise and extreme fashion; the other, wide streets with architecture, shops and cafés. Harajuku was, for me, the best neighbourhood.

The neighbourhoods, one by one

I couldn't pick just one, because each shows a different face of Japan:

• Harajuku: the one I liked best.
• Shinjuku at night: also fantastic.
• Shibuya: chaos, but with a thousand things to do and places to eat.
• Asakusa: the more traditional side, with Senso-ji temple and the Nakamise street full of food stalls and souvenirs. It felt calmer than the rest.
• Ueno: the park, the coffee and the temples, at a slow pace.

Where I ate and what I'd repeat

• Menchirashi, in Omotesando: carbonara ramen. A great surprise.
• The wagyu at Tsukiji market: incredible.
• An omakase: it left me speechless. It cost about €80 per person; if you want one, book 2 to 4 weeks ahead.
• Gyukatsu Motomura: breaded wagyu that you finish cooking yourself at the table. I went twice because I loved it.
• The "random" places: the best ramen I've ever had was at a restaurant I found in Shinjuku. I don't even remember the name, but it was delicious. Moral: don't book everything, leave gaps to walk into wherever smells good.

What I'd skip: Ginza

I might skip Ginza. It's pretty and it's the poshest part, to put it one way, but it lacks that authenticity: tall buildings and luxury shops, without the chaos of the markets or the calm of the parks. If you're short on time, spend that slot somewhere else.

How many days to give Tokyo?

• If your Japan trip is around 12 days: I'd give Tokyo at least 4 or 5. There's so much to see, and although other cities are amazing, Tokyo is so big you have to do it properly.
• If you have more days: I'd easily spend a week in total, which is what I did, split between the first and last days.

In our 17-day Japan itinerary you have Tokyo organised day by day, with times, how to get there and where to eat. To decide where to sleep, see where to stay in Tokyo, and for the budget, how much a 17-day trip to Japan really costs.