Sleeping at a ryokan in Japan for the first time
Tatami, yukata, a kaiseki dinner and an onsen before bed. Here's how the first time we slept at a traditional ryokan went.
Of all the experiences on the trip, sleeping at a ryokan was the one I was most looking forward to — and also the one that raised the most doubts, because I didn't really know what to expect.
The first thing that surprises you is the check-in ritual: you take your shoes off as soon as you arrive, they give you a yukata to wear for the whole stay, and the entire atmosphere shifts completely compared to an ordinary hotel.
The kaiseki dinner was another highlight, no doubt: several small dishes served one at a time, each with its own presentation carefully worked out to the last detail. It's not a quick dinner, and it's not meant to be one at any point.
Getting into the onsen after a full day of walking, knowing all that's left afterward is sleeping in a comfortable futon, is a combination that's hard to replicate at a conventional hotel.
The only thing that took some getting used to was the etiquette: rules about when and where to wear the yukata, how to behave in common areas without putting a foot wrong.
Where to sleep in a ryokan
If there's one place where it makes sense, it's Takayama: tatami, yukata and a Japanese dinner. Options range from Irori-yado Hidaya, a very authentic experience with incredible hospitality, to Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan, with an onsen and kaiseki dinners. Kanazawa is another perfect city to sleep somewhere traditional, for example at Kanazawa Chaya, very close to the station.
On Miyajima, Iwaso Ryokan is historic and surrounded by nature. Many travelers recommend staying on the island, because it changes completely at night.
Before you book
Ryokans have few rooms, so it's worth booking early, and prices vary a lot by season: in Takayama they run from about €150 to €500 a night depending on the type. You'll find the full list by city and budget in where to stay in Japan: ryokans in Takayama and Kanazawa.
Sleep in a real ryokan
The itinerary has the best value-for-money ryokans on the route picked out, with kaiseki dinner included.
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