Riding the shinkansen in Japan: my first bullet train

I'd watched videos of the shinkansen a thousand times before going to Japan, but nothing fully prepares you for experiencing it in person the first time, genuinely.

The first thing that impresses you is the exact punctuality. The train arrives at exactly the scheduled time, not a minute early or a minute late. Boarding is fast and orderly — there are markings on the platform floor showing exactly where each car's doors will open.

Inside, the silence is what surprises you most of all. We bought a bento and some onigiri at the station before boarding, following the typical advice that "eating on the train is part of the experience" — and it's completely true.

After crossing half the country by shinkansen, it's hard not to compare every train you take afterward to that level of punctuality and comfort. Honestly, nothing else measures up again.

One of the journeys I remember most was from Takayama to Kyoto: we sat on the right side of the train following advice we'd read, and on a clear stretch we got a surprise glimpse of Mount Fuji in the distance.

Practical shinkansen facts

Between cities, the main transport is the shinkansen. Some example times: Tokyo to Kyoto, about 2 hours 30 minutes; Osaka to Hiroshima, 1 hour 30 minutes. Within cities you'll mainly use the subway and urban trains, and the most convenient thing is to add Suica or Pasmo to your Apple Wallet so you can pay for everything without buying tickets.

From the airport to the city

From Narita Airport, about 60 km from Tokyo, the Narita Express (N'EX) takes you directly to the main stations in about 50-60 minutes; with the Japan Rail Pass, that trip is included. From Haneda, closer to the city, the monorail drops you at Hamamatsuchō in 25-30 minutes. A taxi from Narita to central Tokyo is very expensive, so the train or bus almost always pays off.

If your route has several long journeys, check whether the Japan Rail Pass pays off: we explain it in Japan Rail Pass: is it worth it?.