Shirakawa-go and Takayama: the Japan we almost skipped

While we were putting the route together, we came very close to skipping the Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go and Takayama area entirely. It added three days to the trip and didn't appear on any of the typical "must-see Japan" lists we checked. In the end we decided to include it anyway, and it was one of the best decisions of the whole itinerary.

Shirakawa-go was the area's first big impression. An entire village of traditional thatched-roof houses (gassho-zukuri), surrounded by mountains on every side, that literally looks like it's straight out of a Japanese animated film.

Takayama, a bit further along the route, has a different kind of charm: streets of wooden houses, traditional sake breweries, and a small-town pace that feels genuine, not put on for tourists.

Without this area, the route would have been a string of big cities with the odd temple in between. With it, the trip gains a completely different dimension.

How to get there and what to see

The Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go and Takayama stretch is done in two buses of about 1.5 hours each. Book the tickets in advance, because there are few seats and they fill up.

In Shirakawa-go, climb to the Shiroyama Tenboudai viewpoint: it's the classic view of the village and one of the best photos of the trip. Then walk with no fixed route, step into a traditional house and cross the bridge. What stays with you most is the silence and the slow pace, a huge contrast with Tokyo.

In Takayama, the heart is Sanmachi Suji, with streets of wooden houses, small shops and sake breweries. At sunset, cross the Nakabashi Bridge in the light, with the traditional houses around you. It's a small town with no nightlife or chaos, and that's part of its charm.

What to eat and where to sleep

Here you have to try Hida beef, one of the best in Japan, a wagyu-type beef. In Takayama, Ajikura Tengoku is very good for it and Heianraku is a small place with homemade food; book if you can, especially in peak season. For sleeping, Takayama is the best place to spend a night in a ryokan: you'll find the options in where to stay in Japan: ryokans in Takayama and Kanazawa.